I am lucky enough to have been studying Italian in Philadelphia at the America-Italy Society of Philadelphia with a great teacher, Chiara Montera. Chiara grew up in Florence, went to Liceo Classico (the most 'hard core' of Italian high school types) then university and now teaches Italian at Temple University but also makes time for the likes of me. As it happens, in a major strike of fortune and coincidence, Chiara was scheduled to be in Florence (Firenze) at the same time we were, so we were able to meet for caffè one of the first afternoons we were there. It was great to be able to chat with her in her own town and catch up on my learning process. We have plans for how to proceed when we are all back.
But the other amazing thing that happened is that Chiara sent me a long and wonderful email list of recommendations: breakfast, lunch and dinner places, stores, sights, and of course, gelato. Here are a few of her recommendations which we experienced:
Breakfast: Scudieri in Piazza S. Giovanni. I went here once to pick up pastries and coffee to bring back to the apartment and another time we all went and sat outside. The pastries and coffee were fabulous, but the cost to sit was a bit highway robbery so I don't recommend that (and neither did Chiara, to be fair!) Next time, if we are on the way somewhere, we will simply find a place in the shade of the Duomo to sit and eat.
Lunch: Del Fagioli on corso Tintori a few minutes from the Uffizi. We went here twice and we'd go again tonight if it was possible! The first time we arrived, we were hot and grouchy from a crowded experience at the Uffizi and this restaurant doesn't have the typical tables spilling out into the street. But we went in anyway. The staff was not only friendly, but clearly loved what they did and loved the food they served. To us and to others they responded to questions about the dishes with more than cursory answers - they oozed from their person the reasons why each dish was on the menu. We ate gnocchi, ravioli, a slow-cooked beef filet and polpette (meatballs). The second time was with Ale (she had stayed at the museum the first time) and we shared this place with her. Together, the 5 of us shared a giant and beautiful grilled steak which was perhaps one of the best we have had.
Dinner: we had three dinners on Chiara's recommendations...
Trattoria Nella on via delle Terme near piazza della Signoria. We went here twice also (noticing a trend about Chiara's recommendations? The two guys running the place are clearly brothers and were very warm and friendly, especially to the kids. The food was fantastic and we tried a couple of their specials each time we were there. Fabulous. Coquinarius on via delle Oche is a wine bar with great food. Chiara had told us to ask for Nico who, if I understood her correctly, had been the best man at her and her husband's wedding. Nico was not there but the young woman serving us went from polite to over-the-top and effusively happy/enthusiastic/excited to know that we knew Chiara and Chris! We ordered a mixed antipasti platter which was outstanding and a variety of other pastas and dishes. We drank a delicious white wine which they had recommended and generally felt so happy to have been to there!
Gelato: Gelateria de' Neri on via de' Neri was delicious. We have certainly become gelato snobs here in Italy but I would certainly put this toward the top of the list. Boys had stracciatella and cioccolato (almost 'the usual') and I had mint and chocolate.
We will most certainly keep her email and hope to use it again for more experiences in Florence! Grazie, Chiara! Un giorno se tu e Chris andremo in California, spero a darvi una lista similare!
But the other amazing thing that happened is that Chiara sent me a long and wonderful email list of recommendations: breakfast, lunch and dinner places, stores, sights, and of course, gelato. Here are a few of her recommendations which we experienced:
Breakfast: Scudieri in Piazza S. Giovanni. I went here once to pick up pastries and coffee to bring back to the apartment and another time we all went and sat outside. The pastries and coffee were fabulous, but the cost to sit was a bit highway robbery so I don't recommend that (and neither did Chiara, to be fair!) Next time, if we are on the way somewhere, we will simply find a place in the shade of the Duomo to sit and eat.
Lunch: Del Fagioli on corso Tintori a few minutes from the Uffizi. We went here twice and we'd go again tonight if it was possible! The first time we arrived, we were hot and grouchy from a crowded experience at the Uffizi and this restaurant doesn't have the typical tables spilling out into the street. But we went in anyway. The staff was not only friendly, but clearly loved what they did and loved the food they served. To us and to others they responded to questions about the dishes with more than cursory answers - they oozed from their person the reasons why each dish was on the menu. We ate gnocchi, ravioli, a slow-cooked beef filet and polpette (meatballs). The second time was with Ale (she had stayed at the museum the first time) and we shared this place with her. Together, the 5 of us shared a giant and beautiful grilled steak which was perhaps one of the best we have had.
Dinner: we had three dinners on Chiara's recommendations...
Trattoria Nella on via delle Terme near piazza della Signoria. We went here twice also (noticing a trend about Chiara's recommendations? The two guys running the place are clearly brothers and were very warm and friendly, especially to the kids. The food was fantastic and we tried a couple of their specials each time we were there. Fabulous. Coquinarius on via delle Oche is a wine bar with great food. Chiara had told us to ask for Nico who, if I understood her correctly, had been the best man at her and her husband's wedding. Nico was not there but the young woman serving us went from polite to over-the-top and effusively happy/enthusiastic/excited to know that we knew Chiara and Chris! We ordered a mixed antipasti platter which was outstanding and a variety of other pastas and dishes. We drank a delicious white wine which they had recommended and generally felt so happy to have been to there!
Gelato: Gelateria de' Neri on via de' Neri was delicious. We have certainly become gelato snobs here in Italy but I would certainly put this toward the top of the list. Boys had stracciatella and cioccolato (almost 'the usual') and I had mint and chocolate.
We will most certainly keep her email and hope to use it again for more experiences in Florence! Grazie, Chiara! Un giorno se tu e Chris andremo in California, spero a darvi una lista similare!
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