Firenze - How Do We Love Thee?

Let us count the ways....!

Brian and I have been to Florence two times before.  And, to be extra clear, we have been to Italy two times before.  Once, in 1994 when my parents took all four of us on a trip to Italy as a grad-school graduation gift (we went to Rome, Florence, Parma and Milan) and once in 2000 when Brian took me to Europe for a month for my birthday (Amsterdam, Paris, Montreux, Florence and Positano).  After the second time, we both had developed a feeling of "meh" toward Florence.  Looking back now, I really can't explain why.  Perhaps it wasn't new to us like the other cities on the second tour.  Perhaps we were just idiots.

The boys sitting on the window of our apartment

In addition to this predisposition to Florence, I had a new view of Florence, the view of my Italian teacher, a Sarde who had lived in Rome nearly her whole life, she often joked about how Florence wasn't a "città", it was a "cittina" (Italians put "ina/ino" at the end of words to make them diminutive).  She admitted that she was a big snob (her own words) about Florence, and I definitely took it all with a grain of salt because I have seen how truly territorial Italians can be about their towns and regions, but I'm sure it influenced my anticipation of going back to Florence.

It all started on the right foot when we checked in to our apartment.  We had a pretty good experience with our Rome apartment but had just come from a relatively negative experience with our Sicily house.  The idea of dealing with another apartment that was not as it seemed from the photos had caused me angst.  After a long day of travel - by car from house to Palermo airport, fly to Rome, train to Florence - we were greeted in Piazza S. Lorenzo right outside the apartment by "Mr. Filippo".  The apartment was great: charming, nicely decorated, comfy beds, air conditioning in every room (including living room) and small kitchen and two bathrooms.  Whew!  I love you again Florence, I'm sorry I ever doubted you!!

The San Lorenzo market - yummmmmm

The food was really what turned us all around for good!  Partially it was an issue of what we were used to but truly it was also just empirically delicious food.  We had developed a way of eating "family style" which really worked well.  I will probably write a separate post on this.  Morning beverages were caffè macchiato for Brian and me, lattè macchiato for Ale and succo d'arancia or water for the boys.  Pastries of one sort or another for everyone but Brian who did well finding some savory breakfast options.  Lunch and dinner were usually similar to each other with prosciutto and melon, mozarella and tomatoes, salumi plates, risotto and pasta dishes and cutlets, meatballs and steaks.  And, one thread of consistency throughout our trip: gelato!

View from the top of the Duomo

Something else that really fit well with us in Florence is the smallness of it.  Yes, exactly what my Italian teacher complained about!  But, its smallness allowed us to explore, especially with kids, and see much of the city.  We walked everywhere and took transit never.  We saw Boboli Gardens, the Uffizi Gallery, climbed to the top of the Duomo, visited the Leonardo Da Vinci museum and the Galileo Museum.  We walked to restaurants and gelaterias all over town.  We walked across the Ponte Vecchio and to the grocery store. I walked to go shopping and to get my hair cut.

So, Brian and I have been to Florence 3 times now.  We no longer think "meh" - and I know we will be back.  Someday.